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A Service Fault has appeared on the dash, image tends to show either rear sensors or lane departure but a local garage diagnostics show the front radar at fault. Question is how do know what the error really is referring to? I've checked the physical mounting of the front radar, all looks secure. Any ideas? It's a 2016 Pulsar n-tech diesel. Thanks.

Cheers Leveller I’ll have a look at that it’s driving me up the wall lol only does it when stationary with foot on brake and when in reverse.

Chris KA. We had the knocking sound when the car was stationary and put into D or R but not when it was in P with just the engine ticking over. The knocking also tended to stop once the car started moving up to speed. After some investigation we found that as the revs lowered when put into D or R it was causing the air intake pipe to vibrate and knock against the engine. It has been zip tied to the cable loom just behind it and the knocking has now stopped. Hopefully yours may be as simple.

Leveller no still not worked out what’s causing it but I’ve also noticed the same knocking sound when in reverse gear.

Did you resolve this? I've had something very similar which we seem to have resolved.

I have a new Dec 2024 Quashqui. When using a USB stick with music files, not all the tracks are played. Some are played and some are not. There does appear to be any logical reason for this. The dealer said that the USB stick might the wrong type without explaining what type would work. After researching the various types of USB stick it appeared that what I needed was the latest USB stick termed “USB-C”. Apparently there are several types of USB sticks and the Quashqui I have needs the latest type. But this has not solved the problem, I still get some tracks that work and some are ignored. The dealer has booked the car in for them to sort the problem, but it won’t be until mid April, 6 weeks away. Has anyone else had a similar experience?

I wasn’t planning on buying a Nissan Leaf. I was only vaguely aware it was an option. We had been contemplating a fully electric car for a while, but were torn between a smaller vehicle and a larger one with a significant towing capacity. It was a toss-up between a Tesla Model Y as the larger option or something else as the smaller option, but we didn’t know what the something else would be. We stumbled into the local Nissan dealer while out window-shopping for cars recently, and they showed us three used Nissan Leafs they had in stock. After many questions with the dealer and a test drive, we bought the 2020 Nissan Leaf Tekna 40 kWh, subject to financing. I spent the next few days researching all I could about the car and organising financing and insurance. A week after the initial test drive, we drove the shiny new toy off the lot and took it home. This is our first fully electric vehicle. I previously had a non-plugin hybrid, so I was familiar with regenerative braking. However, driving a fully electric car is a different experience, so there would be a learning curve. The first and most apparent difference in the driving experience is the buttery smooth transition between accelerating and decelerating and the equally jolt-free transition from stationary to moving and from moving to stationary. Pulling up to a traffic light or otherwise coming to a complete stop is smooth, with no engine vibration, no jolt from a change in gears, etc. It’s an absolute joy to drive. The Nissan Leaf has an ePedal feature. This feature must be manually engaged when you start the car using a pull switch in the centre console near the gear stick. When engaged, the car maximises regenerative braking. Usually, when you press a car’s brake pedal, the car’s forward momentum is arrested as brake pads heat up through friction. All the car’s forward momentum energy is transferred to the brake pads' heating, so it’s lost as heat energy. When you lift your foot from the accelerator while the ePedal feature is engaged, the Leaf’s motor instantly becomes a generator. This happens each time the car slows down while driving, which can be quite often if you are in the city or the journey is primarily stop and go. All the car’s forward momentum is captured as energy used to charge the battery for as long as you’re braking. The transition from motor (using energy from the battery) to generator (putting energy into the battery) is instant and seamless. The more stop and go and braking (lifting your foot from the accelerator), the more energy is reclaimed and put back into the battery. Where the difference in driving experience is noticeable between the Leaf and a regular ICE (Internal Combustion Engine) car, is that the braking effect from just lifting your foot off the accelerator is considerably more acute – especially when ePedal is engaged. In other words, the car slows down much faster than you might otherwise expect. It takes a bit of getting used to. I love the ePedal, but my wife doesn’t. I do have to remember to engage the ePedal feature each time. Sometimes I forget, and then engage it after I’ve started moving the car, such as reversing out of the garage. The car then almost immediately comes to a complete stop due to the braking effect, so I’m still getting used to this. Range anxiety, or the fear of running out of battery charge at inconvenient times, is a genuine concern. Although the fear is real, we’ve not encountered any actual issues in practice. The car has three charging options, each associated with one of two different charging connectors under the small flap in front of the bonnet. When unlatched, either by pressing the button on the key fob or the button on a panel to the left of the steering wheel, the flap can be raised to reveal the two charging ports. The one on the left is the CHAdeMO charging port for fast charging (up to 50 kW). When at a fast charging station, you connect the cable physically and permanently attached to the charge pole into this slot. The charging port on the right side is for AC charging. Two cables come with the car for use with this slower AC charging port. One has a regular household plug on the end, which you use to plug the car in at home. That will give you a trickle charge (2.3 kW) which is relatively slow and typically requires the car to be plugged in overnight to charge the battery fully from near empty. The other is for charging faster at paid locations while out and about (6.6 kW). It’s slower than the CHAdeMO fast charger but fast enough to give you a decent charge after a couple of hours, such as while out shopping or at a restaurant. The CHAdeMO charger could take me from 15% to 80% in about half an hour. While researching the car, before I had paid for it, I learned that getting a battery SOH (State Of Health) report was prudent. Fortunately, the Nissan dealer accommodated this request and provided me with the report. In my case, the report showed the battery was still at 100% health. If the battery health deteriorates below a certain threshold after a certain period, the warranty kicks in and you can have the battery replaced under the warranty. As my Leaf is only 5 years old and came with just 18,500 KM, I did not expect any significant degradation. Using a dongle and a smartphone app called LeafSpy, you can extract detailed telemetry from the car, which provides much more in-depth insights into the vehicle’s usage, battery charging history, etc. I have yet to dive into that. The two charging cables that come with the car are heavy duty, and not the easiest to fold away tidily into the pocket on the inside of the boot. Life with a fully electric car now involves the logistics of managing these cables, taking them out and wrapping them away again after each charge session, etc. We’ve left the AC charger with the household plug permanently plugged in to a socket in the garage, so it’s always conveniently placed to plug in when the car is in the garage. However, it only just reaches. The cable is 5m long. The car itself is 4.5m long. Using extension cords is ill advised for various reasons, so having a plug socket adjacent to where the car is parked while charging is a consideration. You can find out how much charge the battery has at any point from the dashboard while the car is turned on, but there is also a Nissan smartphone app called NissanConnect EV, which you can use to access that information remotely. The car periodically communicates charging telemetry with Nissan’s computing cloud. The app then reads that data from the cloud to provide you updates. We’ve found this slow and the app somewhat buggy and limited. There’s another app called My Leaf. That’s marginally better but still quite slow to refresh and display updated information. With both apps, the information is never immediately at your fingertips – there’s always an annoying delay getting the refreshed data. Our experience with charging while out and about has been a little hit and miss. Our local McDonald’s has a charging pole from Vattenfall. There are two bays and three charging cable types. I’ve attempted to use it twice. Both times I’ve been able to park and hook up, but one time there was a message on the screen indicating there was no power available. I called the number listed and spoke to a real person, but they said they could do nothing since it was outside of regular office hours. The other time it worked perfectly, and I charged from 15% to 80% by the time I finished my meal. Fortunately, my employer provides free charging for electric vehicles. I’ve been able to charge my vehicle to 100% each time I’ve parked at the office, even when I only worked for a half-day. There are dozens of charging networks around the country and Europe. This means you might individually need to subscribe to each network to access their charging locations, which can be quite a hassle. I decided to take out a charge subscription with the ANWB, which affords me access to a wide range of chargers around the country and Europe. Although this doesn’t grant me access to every charge location, it covers a very wide range, and their app helps me identify locations, how many bays are available, what charge connection types are supported, how much it costs to charge there, etc. Being a relatively new car, at just 5 years old, it’s in very good condition. There are no dings or dents and it looks and feels as new. That said, we did have the red airbag warning light come on after a few days. The car is now booked in for a warranty repair of whatever that problem is. Otherwise, we can find no issues with the car. The car feels less spacious inside than other cars we’ve owned (our Citroen Picasso and Renault Megane were both larger vehicles on the inside). Somehow, I feel a little more enclosed in the Leaf. There is less space in the front seats than I would like. I’ve taken to placing a small towel between my right leg and the center console, as my right leg rests against the center console’s hard plastic otherwise, and it can feel a little uncomfortable after a while. After starting the car, I plug in my iPhone to use Apple’s Car Play in-car system. There’s nothing wrong with Nissan’s own in-car system, which seems nicely laid out and easy to use. I’ve just become accustomed to using Car Play in other vehicles and like it. My only gripe is that it can take up to thirty seconds after switching on and plugging the USB cable into the iPhone before the Car Play interface loads and starts. That might not sound like much but that’s about 25 seconds after I wanted to drive away already, and the delay this causes is often inconvenient. I don’t want to have to operate the touchscreen after I’ve started moving, for obvious reasons. One of the Leaf Tekna's really cool features is its 360-degree camera vision. When the camera is engaged (automatically while in reverse or otherwise when pressing a button), the views from the various cameras are stitched together to depict a top-down view of the car so that you can see all around it. This ensures you don’t bump into anything when manoeuvring the car around tight spaces, and it gives you more peace of mind and confidence while reversing. The Leaf's primary fast-charging port is the CHAdeMO port. However, this standard is outgoing and being replaced by the CCS (Combined Charging System) standard. As the CCS standard slowly takes over, fewer fast chargers will have CHAdeMO. Eventually, it will be necessary to get an adapter. Currently, there are a few adapters on the market, but it is early days and they are expensive, ranging anywhere from €750 to €1100. Having an adapter will open up a lot more charging options for the Leaf, but I expect the prices to come down over time as more adapters become available and economies of scale kick in. Other nice features of the Leaf are the adaptive cruise control and lane assist. Adaptive cruise control means you can set a speed and the car will automatically adjust up and down (without going over) as required depending on whether traffic is ahead of you. If traffic in front slows down, so will the Leaf. When the traffic ahead speeds up, so will the Leaf. The lane assist will keep the Leaf in lane even during light turns. Technically, you can take your hands off the wheel, and the car will still steer itself. There are limitations. It doesn’t work for anything other than a slight bend in the road, and the system will warn you if it detects you’ve let go of the steering wheel for over a few seconds. While engaged, the cruise control warns you if you get too close to, or go over, the white road line markings. It grabs your attention with audible and physical alerts. You hear what sounds like a car horn and the steering wheel vibrates simultaneously. Nissan got this just right. Together, these warning signals grab your attention but are not so shocking as to scare the wits out of you. We have noticed that the indicated range at the start of any journey is much more optimistic than what we get in practice. When leaving my office with 100% battery charge, the car indicates a range of 255 KM. After driving 40 KM to my home, the range is indicated to be around 190 KM. Despite only driving 40 KM, the indicated range reduced by as much as 65 KM. Much of my drive home is on the motorway, where there is limited scope for capturing regenerative braking energy, but it still feels like we’re getting less than what’s promised – especially on longer trips. There is a touchscreen LCD display, but I find the resolution to be average at best. It could benefit from having a better resolution, not to mention a slightly higher placement on the dash, so we’re not having to look down at it so much. Even though the Tekna is the more premium version of the Leaf, it doesn’t have electrically operated seat adjustments for the passenger and driver seats. I really miss that. It does have a very good sound system, which we really like. That said, the Bose base unit in the boot does seem to take up some boot space. Also a missing feature is an automatic boot operation. My wife misses that feature also. Overall, we’re very happy with our 5-year-old 2020 Nissan Leaf Tekna 40 kWh. The positives outweigh the negatives by quite some margin. The car is delightful to drive. We’re thrilled with the purchase and have made a relatively seamless transition to fully electric driving.

Try paintless dent remover

Hi everyone, new to the group and desperate for help. A friend has a nv200 French reg 2014 left hand drive. It seems that the blower has stopped working. So far I've checked the actual motor, which is fine and the relays, again Ok. I'm convinced it's the resister which I'm trying to locate. The problem is that all the clips from YouTube etc show the resister being in the same place in all the clips. Unfortunately, this is not there on the nv200 I'm looking at. It's not that I can't see it, a problem I'm often accused of!? If anyone knows where else it may be please, please get back to me. Grasal

Hi Trevor and Andrew. I hope you don't mind me jumping on you post. A friend has a nv200 French reg, left hand drive. It seems that the blower has stopped working. So far I've checked the actual motor, which is fine and the relays, again Ok. I'm convinced it's the resister which I'm trying to locate. The problem is that all the clips from youtube etc show the resister being in the place that the added clip shows. Unfortunately, this is not there on the nv200 I'm looking at. It's not that I can't see it, a problem I'm often accused of!? If you have any idea where else it may be please, please get back to me. Grasal

Hi is there anybody out there who can tell me the location of the engine temperature sensor. Thank you in advance.

Hi I have just bought Ancel X7 bidirectional price was 350euros

Thanks Trevor much appreciated. Nigel.

Would any one be interested in my sunny Ebay link https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/396248132943?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ln3og29dsze&sssrc=2051273&ssuid=ln3og29dsze&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Yes thanks, that was the first thing I done. Wasent sure at first if it had come off my car. But google lens nearest picture produced a pic and said, nissan almeria. So think it must be off my vehicle. Thanks for the help. Paul

At this stage it’s worth a shot … or it’s the scrap heap 😒

Try searching in Google Lens - it brings up many images similar to yours and maybe give you a clue of what it is

I think your mechanic is right and certainly worth a try for the cost of a secondhand ECU My only concern is how is has been damaged in the first place - short circuit in wiring, water ingress, etc

Check the battery power leads and connections Pay particular attention to the earth leads from the battery to the engine, gearbox and chassis for breaks or corrosion

I would check the connections under the seats (ignition off) and see if secure or damaged in any way You could use a resistor to see if that works but do not apply resistance checks to the SRS components (airbags, pretensioners, etc) If the vehicle has been in a crash and the airbag module has sensed this then you will need to replace the module but believe a secondhand one should work straight away and cancel the code

could be a vacuum leak causing that (revs hunting at idle)

This may help https://www.startmycar.com/gb/nissan/pixo/guides/power-steering-fluid-change

Aftermarket valves would more than likely sort it Try DemonTweeks for motor racing valves - have used them on my motorbike and far better than standard items

Can't say I have come across an adapter like this before but worth checking eBay for anything like it

seat adjustment but also seat height can make a huge difference