All Activity

Update: This it was raining today. I realized I never reconnected the drainage tube in the bottom/side of the luggage compartment so I went outside to check. What I found was: 1) The bottom of the tube (blue arrow), disconnected from the valve that goes through the metal wall of the car and into the wheel well, was not wet and there was no water pooling in the bottom of the car. This tells me the water wasn’t reaching the end of the line so it must be kinked or plugged upstream. But remember, I successfully ran a nylon string trimmer cable through the entire tube and found no evidence of dirt clogging the tube. 2) the headliner was the wettest right around the hinge for the cargo access door (red arrow). I could see a drip falling from the metal directly above it, as well as a drip running from the same piece of metal to the left, behind the upper cargo side panel trim. If the leak were coming from the moon roof drain, I don’t understand why it would be so wet all the way back where it is. Are there any other areas where water could enter on top of the car around the cargo door? The antenna for instance? It can’t be the door seal itself because the drip is above the door seal. A leak in the back of the roof still wouldn’t explain the dry end of the tube tube in the lower side panel/floor trim…

Does anyone know why, when I disconnect and reconnect the battery my hardtop opens and closes perfectly, but, when I come to open it next day it won't open until I disconnect and reconnect the battery again

Hi Mike, I have for sale a 2006 uk 350z with 20300 miles, and only 1 previous owner. Totaly standard car in genuinely pristine condition

I have water leaking into my headliner above the luggage compartment. I thought it was the drain line that runs from the moon roof, through the headliner, behind the trim in the luggage compartment, and drains roughly in the wheel well. But now, I don’t think this is the case. Where else could the water be entering?? I managed to pry back the headliner above the rear drivers side door and disconnect the tube from the rear left moonroof drain. Then I removed several parts of the luggage compartment floor, ultimately gaining access to where the tube connects to a drain in the wheel well. I then pushed a nylon string trimmer cable through the entire drain line starting at the top and ending where the tube meets the wall of the car. The cable got caught up several times in the drain but I twisted it and kept pushing and it made it through. I didn’t see any visible dirt on the cable when it exerted and no visible dirt fell out. Now I’m thinking that that tube is clear and the water must be entering somewhere else. I don’t know where else it could be entering on the drivers side. Does anyone have any other ideas for what to check next?

I think I would just fit a new tyre and then make the comparison from there on

Thanks for giving us feedback on your Juke - its always worth hearing the bad as well as the good points to give a fair assessment of a vehicle. The Jukes have always been a high revving engine due to the transmission gearing but they are better being run at higher revs most of the time to keep the engine from carbon/sooting up, etc

Sounds like water ingress into the electronics or sensors (not sure how deep the water was). If it is allowed to dry out in the sun then possibly it may work then.

Translation from Greek: I went through a lot of water and I can't see the cameras and the blind spot light on the switch came on

Hi I posted on here about an emissions failure earlier. I have just taken my car back for a retest and the emissions are now fine. However it still hasn’t passed the test because it turns out that the engine management light never illuminates even on start up. The tester says it should have been showing up when I had a fault on the emissions. Anyone have any ideas how to trace the problem/fault to rectify this? Thanks

Hi again. I took the car for a retest today after having changed spark plugs and oil and adding additive. Emissions are now fine, however, it brought up a previous fault code P03033 which was still on the system although the engine check light was not lit. It turns out that the engine check light never comes on. The centre will not pass the car until I get this sorted. Any advice please?

I have a Micra Sport C+C Auto. The drivers side quarter light window has dropped into the car body. My garage says I need parts they cannot access. Can anyone help me please? Regulator 83720BC000 Motor 83730BC000 Thank you. If no one can help me then I could well be offering this as a parts bank!!! Regards Jan in Sudbury

I have a Micra Sport C+C Auto. The drivers side quarter light window has dropped into the car body. My garage says I need parts they cannot access. Can anyone help me please? Regulator 83720BC000 Motor 83730BC000 Thank you. If no one can help me then I could well be offering this as a parts bank!!! Regards Jan in Sudbury

Πέρασα μέσα από πολλά νερά και δεν βλέπω τις κάμερες και το τυφλό σημείο αναβη το λαμπάκι του διακόπτη .

Hi can I need a new radiator for a Nissan Sereena Highway star 1990cc Whare can I get the correct part? Thanks

My thoughts exactly. I’m thinking that the 05-12 Pathfinder LE’s, when in 2WD, do not have the front transfer case engaged at all. There’s no hub lock or unlock on these. Unless selecting 4WD is what you’re referring to by manually locking the hubs. AWD is a confusing on this vehicle. I don’t think that the hubs are technically locked, but they’re obviously engaged, and the drive is put to the front by “The System” when it senses “Slip” I guess. And if your front tires are mismatched, it might sense slip continuously. I guess that I could put the truck up on the lift, start it and engage “Drive”(2WD), and just see what’s spinning. I would assume that the forward drive shaft always spins, but that the transfer case is not engaged. Another way would probably be to put on the new front tire on the front paired with the used front tire and go drive. If it’s a problem, the “VDC” and “Slip” lights would probably come on.

Hi Sappo, I took delivery of my Juke Hybrid in December, so now have three months experience with it. My primary reason for changing was the Juke's higher ride - I previously had three Toyota Hybrids (Auris and Corolla) and was starting to struggle getting in and out due to a back problem. To that end the Juke has been a 100% improvement. However, for my money the Toyota Hybrid system is far superior. I could easily exceed 60mpg with the Toyotas without making any adjustments. Best I have achieved so far with the Juke is 52 - that is using Eco Drive and e-pedal, both of which have to be activated every time I start up. I have no mechanical expertise but I cannot understand why the Juke revs so high when travelling between 28-31, which for most of us is the speed we drive at around town. That said, I find the car has a very solid feel (maybe a more "robust" ride than the Toyota) and I feel safe in it. Psalmist

This is more than likely from the front underside but worth looking underneath at both ends to ensure that your undershield is present at the front/rear

possibly the DPF trying to regenerate but something is stopping the process - check all necessary conditions with the process (e.g. fuel tank of fuel, higher RPM for set period, etc)

I tend to enter details into EuroCarParts or eBay sites to see if they are listing belt or chain for each engine type If in doubt about belt replacement history then changing it is the best way forward

Good luck in your search and may be worth considering countries like Malta, Cyprus and maybe Portugal for any that were sold out there in RHD and they would be in rust free condition and no tax to pay as they are old vehicles

I would imagine if the front hubs are manually unlocked then it should be fine but if auto locked hubs then potentially the different rolling diameter would affect the transfer box, etc....so probably worth ensuring all four tyres are same tread depth as near as possible

I have always managed to find replacement resistor packs for most cars on eBay More than likely would be the same for most Nissan models - remove it and compare to images of them on eBay

I would ask your local Nissan dealer as to cost and availability of the parts and go from there If its a reasonable price for parts and fitting then would be worth fixing it

Hi.....welcome to the club Good to have you onboard!

I have been told by my nissan dealership the CVT unit is not servicable by them. Nissan GB seem to sy different, fluid change at 90k, and level checked on intermediate services. my 2018 Juke CVT unit is terminal, over 6k to fix!