Trevor

The dealership should walk you through the car if you have bought through them. Best to take someone along with you to aid your memory, I know because I get told things and promptly forget them :-)

Its such a scam and see it all the time - easy money for the garages. It is possible to fit replacement rubbers if all they are is perished. As long as they are not perforated and leaking grease or if there is any play in the joints then it is perfectly serviceable. Advise on the MOT sheet but not necessary to replace otherwise. Recently fitted a replacement lower arm on wife's Juke and then replaced it a year later as the first (cheaper one) knocked the joint out in no time - more expensive one, quite a bit heavier duty for the N/S location and almost twice the weight. An easy job to carry out yourself and definitely not £1200 worth of repairs. Kept the old rubbers to use if necessary in the future. :-)

Hi .... welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard

Check maintenance and service history and there would be signs of any abuse with wear and tear in the interior - I always believe it is has been allowed to be grubby inside then they don't tend to look after the vehicle maintenance

Code p0111 relates to intake air temp sensor Put VW P0111 into google search and comes up with a few videos of location and replacement

I'm sure you will keep finding bodges throughout the car and maybe worthwhile assuming everything needs checking and just work your way through it. If you are lucky you may find the issue which is causing the problems and may not cost you much if anything at all to resolve Let us know how you get on with it

Hi...welcome to the Club yes at that age it should be a K11 model. A resistor pack will be near to or even bolted to the heater blower motor and while you're under the dash you can look to see if any linkage has dropped off Let us know how you have got on with it

Please let us know how you get on with it

Unless the chassis has been replaced as they suffered from the rear section (load area) breaking in half? https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=nissan+navara+chassis&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8 https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=nissan+navara+chassis+number+location&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

Sounds like the timing chain is worn - just posted an article relating to a Nissan Pulsar c13 1.2 DIG-T engine with same symptoms. https://www.nissanownersclub.com/forums/topic/34996-nissan-pulsar-c13-neverending-problem/

Hmm, seems like someone had the issue before and a bodge was carried to rectify the issue (or at least attempt to rectify it). There is an issue with the timing chains and as far as I can see it was a recall from Nissan. It does suggest that it occurs on hard acceleration (e.g. from a slip-road) and if the chain is slack it can drift away from the timing point by a small fraction (much like a loose timing belt) which can then throw a code for cam/crank timing and result in what you are experiencing. I would personally replace the engine oil and look to see what has come out - e.g. metal particles and then replace it with the specified oil which may have not been supplied with previously. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/engine-oil-12094/nissan/pulsar/pulsar-hatchback-c13/107484-1-2-dig-t If you use a quality oil of the correct specifications (as listed in the link above) and see if that makes any difference to how it runs. If no real difference is noted then I would advise to get the timing chain replaced which will almost certainly make a difference if it is worn

It's on the chassis rail right hand side (outer) under the drivers door. Literally bend down and you should see it straight under the sill. Found this on a Navara site, also it should be on the body below the windscreen area but if all else fails it will be printed on your vehicle logbook

Well the induction hose you replaced was definitely the culprit and as that was perished I would also look for any other hoses that may have holes or splits through perishing over the years. An increase in revs is usually a vacuum leak through a perished or split hose. As for the transmission - it is hard to tell what the issue is but I would advise to get it to a transmission specialist for them to set it up correctly - may need calibration through specialist equipment

Personally I would direct compressed air around the area to see if I could clean it without removing components - you can get compressed air canisters to clean computers and keyboards. The possibly I would lightly apply some silicone spray around the area the noise is coming from but not too much, only a fine spray so as not to interfere with the SRS components.

Sometimes helps to breakdown carbon deposits but mainly using premium high octane/cetane fuels is best to help with cleaning up the combustion process.