Trevor

Unless the chassis has been replaced as they suffered from the rear section (load area) breaking in half? https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=nissan+navara+chassis&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8 https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=nissan+navara+chassis+number+location&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

Sounds like the timing chain is worn - just posted an article relating to a Nissan Pulsar c13 1.2 DIG-T engine with same symptoms. https://www.nissanownersclub.com/forums/topic/34996-nissan-pulsar-c13-neverending-problem/

Hmm, seems like someone had the issue before and a bodge was carried to rectify the issue (or at least attempt to rectify it). There is an issue with the timing chains and as far as I can see it was a recall from Nissan. It does suggest that it occurs on hard acceleration (e.g. from a slip-road) and if the chain is slack it can drift away from the timing point by a small fraction (much like a loose timing belt) which can then throw a code for cam/crank timing and result in what you are experiencing. I would personally replace the engine oil and look to see what has come out - e.g. metal particles and then replace it with the specified oil which may have not been supplied with previously. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/engine-oil-12094/nissan/pulsar/pulsar-hatchback-c13/107484-1-2-dig-t If you use a quality oil of the correct specifications (as listed in the link above) and see if that makes any difference to how it runs. If no real difference is noted then I would advise to get the timing chain replaced which will almost certainly make a difference if it is worn

It's on the chassis rail right hand side (outer) under the drivers door. Literally bend down and you should see it straight under the sill. Found this on a Navara site, also it should be on the body below the windscreen area but if all else fails it will be printed on your vehicle logbook

Well the induction hose you replaced was definitely the culprit and as that was perished I would also look for any other hoses that may have holes or splits through perishing over the years. An increase in revs is usually a vacuum leak through a perished or split hose. As for the transmission - it is hard to tell what the issue is but I would advise to get it to a transmission specialist for them to set it up correctly - may need calibration through specialist equipment

Personally I would direct compressed air around the area to see if I could clean it without removing components - you can get compressed air canisters to clean computers and keyboards. The possibly I would lightly apply some silicone spray around the area the noise is coming from but not too much, only a fine spray so as not to interfere with the SRS components.

Sometimes helps to breakdown carbon deposits but mainly using premium high octane/cetane fuels is best to help with cleaning up the combustion process.

Hi...welcome to the Club Just do the bits that you can arrange to sort over time (wiper blades, tyres, etc) and just keep on top of servicing and any other issues that may crop up. Feel free to ask questions whenever you need advice

Its never too late to 'break it in' by slowly and gradually increasing the revs over time to get it used to revving higher - easiest way I've found is drive it the same as normal but just use a lower gear for longer periods....just do it gradually and run on premium fuels

I would normally agree with you regarding the engine being run in but if a previous owner just took it to the shops once a week or crawled through traffic in urban areas the engine would not necessarily be run in correctly (many diesel engines with high mileage can be stripped down and still find the honing marks scored into the bores....suggesting that the engine has not been run in correctly). I have torn down engines with just 21k miles and found the bores to be completely worn but equally I have found engines with over 100k miles to still be as fresh as the day it was built. It all depends on how it has been driven. Another example is a BMW R1200GS motorbike I had for many years. When I bought it, it was consuming quite a lot of engine oil, I changed the grade but it didn't like it (just yet). The bike had only covered 24k miles but it was sluggish and didn't respond as it should. I rode the bike hard (as it should be ridden) with high revs in each gear and eventually it was a completely different bike. No longer did it consume oil but I could happily change the oil grade accordingly. The long and short of it is that it was not run in correctly and I managed to change that by riding it hard for a period of time. Most diesel engines are not revved hard enough to burn off carbon (which could be gumming up the rings into the piston and not sealing in the cylinder efficiently, blocked EGR, blocked DPF, etc. All they usually need is an 'Italian Tune-up' to keep it all clean. Moral of this lengthy reply is - if it is consuming oil between services then I would consider that my theory is correct. Also try a cylinder leak-down test which will show exactly which cylinder or valves have pressure leaking past them. Very easy test with visible and audible results

I can only really find springs which will drop the height but not sure about other suspension components to complement the springs (dampers, links, etc) https://www.lkperformance.co.uk/car-parts/suspension/lowering-springs/nissan/pathfinder

A couple of things come to mind - you could also try some additives to see if this improves things. If it is breathing heavy then usually bores/rings, etc but if you have tested compression (wet and dry) then this may not be an issue. Worth considering an additive such as StopSmoke or similar to see if any difference and also may change the engine oil for a heavier weight. Finally, if the car has been driven in a high gear and just cruised along for most of its life then it probably isn't run in yet....diesels (as you may know) need to be run hard to bed everything in and to maintain and low carbon emission level (gummed up rings, etc)

This is quite normal as it dims everything for nighttime driving. If you have the infotainment screen fitted then this also dims as well

Try this company https://www.petrolcaps.co.uk/

Sounds like they have arrived a diagnostic conclusion which seems quite reasonable. Not sure why it cuts out though, but sometimes this can occur when the engine revs 'stumble' Please let us know how it all goes