Trevor

There should be a voltage stabiliser within the fuel gauge electrical system which will control the gauge but this may have gone faulty

Through the bulkhead using an existing rubber grommet which you can access and feed through the wire(s)

Sounds like loose connections but where is another question all together

Was there any possibility that the battery terminals were reversed or the positive lead connected last?

I think the battery is showing signs of age Classic reason for the stop/start to go offline is the first signs of battery degradation so if its an original one then it may be long overdue for replacement The locking fault may also then be resolved if the battery is replaced

Good luck with it and let us know how you get on with it

Possibly 'Trip A' and there would be 'Trip B' also if selected? Not sure but that's my first thought as you say it is in the mileage display area

Will it connect via bluetooth instead?

Blimey it does sound like it is possessed 🙂 maybe you need to call in a priest The first thing I would look at is the battery terminals are secure and free from contamination and then check all the leads from it (particularly the earth leads) If any of the earth leads are damaged then this may be one of the reasons If in doubt then take it to an auto-electrician for them to diagnose Let us know how you get on with it

It should show on the fusebox cover But I would be more concerned as to why the fuse has blown

The MPG read out is based on average driving styles, e.g. hard acceleration, hills (up or down) and can fluctuate wildly. Over a set period of time it will settle down to a more precise average rather than bouncing up and down

Most manufacturers have a substantial paint warranty period so worth pursuing it with Nissan UK as the car is new enough to be covered I would think

Its worth pursuing as a private claim if there is no group which is already challenging the issue with Nissan Do a Google search to see if anyone else is pursuing it and maybe it may sway the dealership decision with some financial assistance to resolve it Alternatively you could try to find an independent transmission specialist who may know the issue and the modification to repair the gearbox

Maybe the wiring has broken where it runs through the tailgate to the vehicle body Sometimes the wiring can break in this way as the movement of opening and closing does this Check the integrity of the wiring between the two areas

Sounds like it may just be a breather and if its not leaking any fluids then maybe thats it

This may possibly be the solution, let us know if it works for you

You would have to get a new ECU, immobiliser ECU, possibly instrument panel as well so may not be financially viable to repair it

It could be that one is a passive (analogue) sensor and the other is an active (digital) sensor The two wire (analogue) sensor probably won't work with your system and if the old gearbox is still around then try to recover it to fit into your new box

The wiper arm will be tough to remove as it is on a taper but if you gently wiggle the arm side to side down the bottom end by the screen it will come free

Not entirely sure which ones they should be but if going to get new ones from Halfords their tablet in the bulb aisle will state which ones they should be

You'll need to remove the door card to see what has dropped off. More than likely a linkage has become detached

More than likely if there is a port to attach an aux lead you can run it through the dashboard somewhere

It probably won't have a USB now as mostly everything is streamed via Bluetooth from phones nowadays

It could possibly be the seat pre-tensionser (seatbelt stalk) connections that need looking at Usually happens when moving the seat back and forwards to a different position

Hi....welcome to the Club Nissan made some great campervans over the years and used worldwide