Trevor

Good choice in my opinion

If the propshaft had to be removed for the transfer case seal to be replaced then maybe it hasn't been put back in the same position? You could eliminate this by putting a jubilee clip on the propshaft(s) and test run the vehicle and if necessary, turn the clip slightly to another position to see if that changes the vibration

Has the vehicle had any running faults that can be related to the light coming on? Or had any work done on the engine recently?

Hi Tim....welcome to the Club Good luck with your search and hope you find one

First thing comes to mind is tyres but could also be a clutch plate/pressure plate or engine mount issue but hard to diagnose and not sure why only in the wet Worth dropping into a reputable local garage for them to road test it just in case it is a serious issue

Thanks for letting us know the outcome, nice simple and cheap solution 🙂

A quote of what the system is and not sure how it affects the car shutting down though Usually an ABS sensor that is faulty can cause this but worth getting the vehicle scanned to see what fault codes come up

Avoid Chinese tyres as these are a false economy and sometimes dangerous. Falken and Avon are the best mid-range tyres and very reasonable cost

As long as there is sufficient airflow (albeit redirected) then it shouldn't make too much difference to the temperature of the A/T fluid, unless you are towing constantly in which case I would reconsider it

Try switching the passenger Airbag off through the switch and back on a few times see if that changes anything

Plenty of Nissans that have Renault parts (Qashqai, X-Trail, Juke)

Hi...welcome to the Club Quite a rare model now and you can check 'How Many Left' on a search to see how rare it actually is in the UK Should be able to find bits and pieces on eBay but may have to be from European sellers

Worth having the battery changed as it could be getting a bit low Also, I believe there may be an issue with the microswitches becoming detached from the circuit board inside the fob. If you take it into a locksmiths that can change the battery they should be able to tell you if this is the case

It is worth checking the brake lights are working correctly and also check for any water ingress into the ABS unit Both of these faults come up for that code

I think if it was a belt it would most definitely squeal on start up Belt tensioners can also cause this sort of noise but most generally a squealing belt is down to the make (or most importantly where it is made) and doesn't contain much rubber content, more of a synthetic silicon material which will squeal and stretch no matter how much you tighten it over time

Hi Richf .... welcome to the Club Hopefully the Serena should serve you as well as the Bongo did. Was it corrosion that forced you to part with the Bongo?

Hi....welcome to the Club I would be tempted to look at the gearbox end of the cables as there may be an obstruction between the selector mechanism or even a cable fault. Otherwise I do know that the plastic cup that the gear lever sits in does wear and sometimes break up so if there is a lot of upward movement in the lever then this may be the case Please let us know what you find to be the cause Good to have you onboard!

Should pull out or retained by a screw possibly - can you post a photo of the switch

Left some info in your other post, you could try SatNav Disks - there are a few companies on the net

You could try a Samco hose or similar, far better than original and also probably not too far off the cost of an original item https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/search/shop-by/q/samco hoses

Hi keithtoon ....welcome to the Club There are aftermarket companies on the internet selling SatNav update discs but beware, some work and some don't ! They are not too expensive and worth a try as cheaper than main dealer

Hi Claudio.....welcome to the Club

Crikey I am surprised about a loose battery terminal in this day and age, used to be a very common problem many years ago on older cars and batteries but don't tend to hear about that much nowadays unless someone just didn't tighten it properly. The mirror fault sounds like reverse polarity on the motor or switch possibly (a small DC motor can run either way if polarity is reversed)

If its a 501 bulb then it just pulls straight out

I would start by checking the front tyre pressures are as they should be (see below) I wonder if they are under-inflated? https://www.tyre-pressure.co.uk/pressures/nissan/micra