Trevor

That is not right if the brakes are spongy and should be returned to rectify the fault

No, that is not the case, the pedal should be up the top and firm not at the bottom of its travel. Sounds like they have not set up the brake compensator (if fitted) and this is affecting the brake pressure. Alternatively, there may be air trapped in the system and needs bleeding out

I believe it is a case of lifting it up from the shift lever but watch your face as it flies up .... been there and it hurt 🙂

Like any radiator, you would need to drain and recover the coolant (which could be reused if the antifreeze strength is sufficient. Removal is then just a case of remove and refit components and then ensure there is no air trapped in the cooling system by running up and observing the temperature (hopefully the fan will kick in as well) and also check the heater blows hot

Thats a good result for a cost free warranty job

You are correct, it would be the left hand (nearside) wheel bearing as this is unloading the weight when you steer left

It looks in amazing condition and nice to know the old ones are still being cherished by enthusiasts

How has this improved (if at all) since you posted? It also depends on the type of journey as a hybrid relies on regenerative braking to put a charge in the batteries This can only be achieved in town traffic or elsewhere there is stop start driving. It is unlikely to be achieved on motorway or extra urban driving

Sounds more like a WhatsApp issue if other apps are working fine?

There is a throttle potentiometer switch on the pedal if it is the same as most other Nissan models and it maybe this which is clicking....although maybe worth checking no debris has collected under the pedal and around the switch

Try this site https://www.satnavishop.co.uk/

Let us know how you get on with that

Post up pics of the Sunny if you want, be good to see one after all these years

Hi, welcome to the Club Just general inspection of anything you think needs checking but see if the wiper mechanism clunks when in operation as the joints wear on them Otherwise, look at service history and how clean oil is, etc

How did you get on with this?

Sounds like the system needs a firmware update from the dealer (not sure how much this would cost though)

You could probably use the DPF one on the non-DPF vehicle if it is just the bracket and if it gets in the way then remove it I guess

You should be able to but worth popping into your dealer if they haven't passed that information onto you when you took it away

Could be an ABS issue? Let us know how it goes as interested to see what the fault is

Thats an appropriate fix in the circumstances and cheaper than replacing the exhaust system but totally expensive considering the AA use these as a 'get you back on the road' clamp.

It could be that the EGR or DPF are blocked and this may have contributed to the intercooler hose failing. I would run some cleaner through the fuel and also take for a run to increase the revs over a time and clear it through Sounds like it needs a good 'Italian Tuneup' to sort it out

Sounds like Crankshaft Sensor is failing, symptoms include starting when cooled down and cutting out when hot

You might be able to get some sort of remap on it but doubt it will give huge amounts of power for the cost involved

Sounds like it needs a good blast up the motorway to clear any carbon build up in the engine

I would pressure (or vacuum) bleed the entire system and also check there is nothing in the ABS modulator block assembly Check also the pads are free to move in the carrier as this is a common symptom of pads being stuck in place