Trevor

Sorry, not seen one like that before

Here is a procedure I found and seem to recall using the same technique before on a T31 You must use ORIGINAL KEY to start procedure 1. Sit in car lock all doors with power “switch lock on driver side door” 2. Using ORIGINAL key insert and remove key till doors UNLOCK within 8 seconds, usually insert and remove six times 3. Turn ORIGINAL key in ignition to ACC position (Do not start engine) 4. Lock all doors with “power door lock switch on Driver side door” 5. Press lock or unlock on NEW key this will match them up, if you have another key press lock or unlock as well, it will be programmed all keys to the same code. To exit program mode, turn the ignition OFF. UNLOCK the door using the driver side switch. Test fobs

Sounds like a wiring issue but worth trying the old bulb with the new ballast as I have previously encountered faulty bulbs from new

Replacement battery seems to be the obvious choice to start with?

eBay is probably the best place (and cheapest) to source replacement parts. Avoid parts that are too cheap (Chinese parts) which are usually substandard and are cheap for a reason

Oh dear! that seems to be a long time with all the issues you have experienced. Hopefully they are closing in on the root cause now and it should be resolved when the parts finally arrive in the UK

I would try eBay or a local scrapyard to source a replacement light unit

Hi .... welcome to the Club I wonder if the battery condition coding went according to plan as this seems the most obvious cause considering you had just recently replaced the battery. I would be tempted to take it back to the first garage who coded it and see if they could just determine the state of charge registered in the ECM. Otherwise, if it is correct then you should be able to initiate the stop/start as per the owners manual instructions

I use iCarSoft which is just fine for Nissan and most other makes They do a deal on 10 makes to download (your choice) .... very cheap for a tool of this quality https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333720099709?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28

Hi...welcome to the Club Yes this is quite common for a 3 cylinder engine and so many different makes of car now use a similar engine and they all sound the same 🙂

There are usually two Lambda sensors located in the primary section of the exhaust system (one before the cat and one after it)

The hose is air conditioning drain hose and emits water from the interior of the vehicle. I would have the service items checked (e.g. oil, spark plugs, air filter, etc) at your local garage

It would be worth checking the tyres have deflection, if you raise each corner of the vehicle in turn and rotate by hand to see if the tyres have a bulge or are out of shape. Chinese tyres are prone to distorting on the tread. Also check the tread is not feathered on these tyres

It could be that the rubbers have gone soft in the engine mountings. Reference parts availability it may be best to search eBay as should be plenty on there

5000 miles for an oil change on a diesel engine is about right. The DPF should be given a long run to clear it through otherwise the oil can degrade with the DPF being blocked so worth getting it changed as soon as possible

That is a drain hole for the air conditioning system and dumps the water through to the ground

I would start with the grease, clean it from the reluctor ring and go from there

Hi....welcome to the Club It is normal for the revs to rise to a certain level after start up and drop within a short time once the Lambda sensor goes closed loop. However, it should only really rise to approx 1200rpm maximum. You can calibration settings for the throttle housing via a scan tool quite easily and this should return it to normal rpm Also, worth checking for any vacuum leaks in and around the intake system....split hoses, etc

Hi....welcome to the Club Two things come to mind... 1. Crankshaft Sensor which looks for rotation of the crankshaft which will signal the Engine Management System (EMS) and give the command to fuel and spark dependent on engine speed. If this is faulty (usually when hot and the resistance changes) then this can cut the engine and start when cooled down. 2. Throttle Body adaptation which is adjustable using a scan tool. A lot of times this comes down to carbon build up and benefits from cleaning which gives a constant smooth idle speed A scan of the EMS should give stored fault codes which lead to a more precise diagnosis Let us know how you get on with it all

Hi....welcome to the Club I do wonder if it is worth resetting the vehicle audio and phone settings for the sync to the car and start a new set up to see if this changes anything Otherwise, I wouldn't know where to start with resolving these issues

You should be able to contact your local dealer and ask them as I'm sure it is imminent if safety related

How have you got on with it, did you find any wear on the components?

I would definitely take the car to another garage because it is unlikely that it would require new pads and calipers if they have already been replaced (supposedly). More than likely if he did replace the calipers and pads then the carriers may not have been coated with copper grease in the correct places and leads to pads slightly catching in the guides and causing the occasional squealing noise.

I don't imagine it will....if its kept in good condition and the miles kept low

It could be a broken spring or link on the rear suspension so would check these first