Trevor

Hi.....welcome to the Forum I am slightly worried that they wish to change the transmission fluid but if its not too costly and it will ensure the transmission is trouble-free for years to come then it may be a viable option. The Brake Fluid and Coolant do need changing every two years regardless of mileage as they deteriorate over time and the Brake Fluid will absorb moisture from the atmosphere. Let us know how it all goes

Hi....welcome to the Forum I don't think there is much else you can do to lower the RPM at 100kph.....you've already gone for higher ratio tyres, so the only other thing is to fit another gear ratio(s).' I'm not sure which box will fit though, so may be a case of living with the higher RPM. Let us know what route you go with it and would love to see some pics of the Laurel

Hi Dawn.....welcome to the Forum Couldn't find a specific link to online service information but think this may be somewhere to start https://www.nissan.co.uk/ownership/you-plus.html

Welcome, introduce yourself, join in with the discussions and ask away with any questions you may have.

Welcome, introduce yourself, join in with the discussions and ask away with any questions you may have.

Welcome, introduce yourself, join in with the discussions and ask away with any questions you may have.

Hi all, I own a T30 X-Trail with the 2.2 DCi engine. Got to say its an improvement over my earlier T30 that I owned which was nothing but trouble. This one after a lot of maintenance is now a dream to own Cheers, Trevor

Welcome, introduce yourself, join in with the discussions and ask away with any questions you may have.

Hi ....welcome to the forum I would say that most brake pads nowadays (except counterfit ones from China) are of a good quality and most should have a BS mark on the box to signify the quality. Preferable makes are Bendix, Ferodo, Bosch, etc. General rule of thumb is buy the best you can for your budget

So when you are finally released from lockdown and able to drive your car....what music will you play in the car?

One of my most economical cars I have owned was a Peugeot 106 1.1 petrol and it gave me around 45 to the gallon virtually anywhere i went and was also rather nippy which was fine for round town driving and mixing it up occasionally on an extra-urban run. Would definitely consider something like this again in the future as its all about cutting costs nowadays. Good luck with your hunt for a suitable car and keep us updated on how its all going

I would think if the 2005 car has reached that mileage and is still running okay then at that price it is a no brainer really. The DCi engine is reliable enough and I have had good experiences with them over the years as long as they have been maintained properly. If it were my money I would go with the £999 car as its a good punt for a economical runabout

It shouldn't be too much if they can just replace the bushes (probably original Nissan parts though)

I would wait until it actually fails on the MOT test as it may not get any worse and go on for years. I've had cars which have had the same advisories each year and still not fail on it If it does fail then it has become an issue and needs doing regardless

Steve P . is it still running okay and the levels where it should be ?

I would recommend traditional wiper blades over silicon blades as they are quieter and just as efficient as the silicons which become more noisier and less efficient over a short space of time.

It would definitely be a good idea to remove some of the coolant (maybe see if there is a release tap at the bottom of the radiator to let some out). If too much coolant is present then the pressure would increase and blow the expansion bottle pressure cap...tends to leave a mess everywhere....best to drain to the specified level.

Hi....welcome to the Forum Here are some links that may be of use to you in your search. Someone breaking a Sunny for parts: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BREAKING-1989-NISSAN-SUNNY-1-3-DX-ESTATE-SPARE-PARTS-WHEEL-NUT/283366866619?hash=item41f9fb3ebb:g:VAAAAOSwAhtcWYvp Window Regulator: https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_osacat=0&_odkw=1989+nissan+sunny+parts&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=1989+nissan+sunny+window+regulator&_sacat=0 Central Locking Solenoid: https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_osacat=0&_odkw=1989+nissan+sunny+window+regulator&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=1989+nissan+sunny+central+locking+solenoid&_sacat=0

It does sound like that is the case. I would take the cover off the relay and manually move the contact to see if it energises and if it does then it is either going to be an input signal (voltage) missing or a poor earth

As far as I can remember it should clear the subframe and come straight down. Clean up and replace the gasket and seal and do not overtighten bolts...should do the trick

A lot of money and definitely a weak point 😞

it is a bit quiet on here at the moment so don't mind the conversation....bit lonely otherwise 🙂

Oh dear! I am surprised that the linkage failed rather than the wiper blades splitting although I have seen this several times on MGF and TF when the linkage mechanism was so weak that it was the first point of destruction. Considering they gave you a courtesy car and that's an all-in price, its not that bad really for a dealership

glad you got there in the end and thanks for sharing the information that could help anyone else in the same situation.

I would try something like RadWeld in the radiator which may slow down the leak. There is one they do at Halfords that covers the whole cooling system and not just the radiator....less than £10 Then top the radiator to full and the coolant reservoir to half full with antifreeze/water mix.