Trevor

glad it's all sorted and thanks for the feedback

Hi ShedHead....welcome to the Forum Can you elaborate on the symbols you get when it starts playing up...maybe a photo of the lights as they come up with the ignition switched on? Cheers, Trevor

Go for it...as you say, it is worth it in the long run. Post up some piccies of the job with a description if you like? Cheers, Trevor

Hi...welcome to the Forum I think in this instance it is a case of having to bite the bullet as the potential loss of oil is quite high from the lower part of the block so not worth taking a chance in my mind. Best get stuck in or send it into a garage...shouldn't cost much in labour and may be easier to replace from underneath the car. Let us know us how you get on with it Cheers, Trevor

Hi Simon It sounds like the settings may have been lost when replacing the battery. Maybe worth reading the handbook to see if there is a default setting, if not then a trip to the dealers I think Good to have you onboard Cheers Trevor

Sometimes timing chains can suffer from slack through insufficient oil pressure so maybe change/flush the oil again and replace with better quality oil? It's a cheaper way than chain replacement and see if that works first

Hi Mark.....weclome to the Forum Great deal for someone who needs a new head Worth regularly checking the state of the chassis as they are prone to heavy corrosion. Good to have you onboard Cheers, Trevor

It could be crankshaft sensor...I would look for live data reading on the injectors when turning it over...no reading, no crank sensor signal. Also, could be timing out in which case I would not drive it and let him come out and check it or use the RAC/AA to recover it to his garage.

Difficult question to answer really...depends on which type of journey you predominantly do as your daily commute, load / speed rating, cost, etc Brands such as Michelin and Goodyear are my preferred favourites for all-round durability and grip

Biggest problem sometimes is inheriting problems with a car that the previous owner has introduced like this. Hopefully the journey involves long stretches to keep the revs high enough for prolonged periods of time....then this should keep it clear. Good luck.

Hi Dave...welcome to the Forum I imagine that the your new purchase is quite low mileage and possibly only used for short journeys, hence the reason the DPF is clogged. Diesels really need to be worked to get the best from them and if not revved sufficiently then they tend to clog up internally. The advice and course of action you are currently following is good and in certain circumstances (e.g. it hasn't blocked too much) then it should work. If it still hasn't cleared after a while then it will have to have a forced regeneration by the dealer or reputable repairer. Once it is clear, then it will involved driving it a distances every so often to let is naturally regenerate and stay clear. Hope that helps and let us know how you get on with it all. Cheers, Trevor

Hi Melissa ... welcome to the Forum Sorry to hear about your problems with the car....the glass roof is an issue that tends to affect many other makes as well (Lexus, being one of them, Audi is another). I believe the fault is with the size of the glass and the fact that it is subjected to the twisting and movement of the vehicle frame....not to mention harsh vibration such as driving through potholes. Although the vehicle looks good with plenty of natural light coming into the cabin, it is fair to say that its not the brightest move by any manufacturer when it comes to design over function. I would personally have the glass replaced and worry about fighting a claim afterwards. It is better than the option of the glass shattering and having to deal with all of that. I wonder also, if your car glass insurance covers it as it is accidental damage(?) Let us know how you get on with it all. Cheers Trevor

I would thoroughly check the chassis for corrosion as the equivalent Navara suffers from the chassis corroding and snapping just behind the rear bulkhead.

I would say that is a very fair price indeed....considering all the work and parts supplied and fitted. Feel free to name the garage...always handy to refer to others if you're happy with the price and the work. p.s. you think he would have discounted the price for the advice(!) you gave on the brake lamp though :-)

Sorry to hear you've had yet more setbacks but I suppose these things are inevitable when the car goes to the track. Could have been worse I suppose. Cheers for submitting the article to the club once more p.s I have sent you an email

Usually the KM or Miles changes depending on where the vehicle is driving (UK or Europe) otherwise there must be something in settings (units, etc)

Here's a link that may assist you in sorting the idle

Hi...welcome to the Forum Firstly, the tax is related to the engine emissions so maybe best to go for the latest model if possible. The EGR on any diesel engine will clog up over time if it is not allowed to run at high revs for a long period (e.g. motorway runs) so no diesel is really suited to urban driving as it doesn't allow for the engine to stretch its legs. Good luck with your purchase

Maybe check the bulb is the correct one...compare it with the other side. Sometimes, the wrong bulb can end up back-feeding the electrical system and causing similar faults. If not, I would recommend taking it to an auto-electrician or a Nissan specialist as this would require diagnostic equipment to read the CanBus signals at the rear light to see what is occurring. Let us know what you find.

Thanks for posting up the useful guide Chris....keep them coming! Cheers, Trevor

Hi...welcome to the Forum First thoughts are drawing air on the air intake system (vacuum leak somewhere upstream) which is causing it to hunt. Listen out for hissing or even spray brake cleaner or similar around the inlet areas with the engine running at idle to see if the revs increase when the gas is drawn in. Failing that, use a smoke tester (some garages have them) to see where any smoke is coming from and hey presto...there's your leak! Also, the slightest air leak on the exhaust system (pre-Lambda sensor) can cause hunting as the Lambda sensor cycles to compensate for the extra air once the engine is warm....check for high oxygen content in the exhaust gas (should be zero) when the hunting occurs at idle. Let us know how you get on with it. Cheers, Trevor

List of known faults with the Nissan X-Trail (please feel free to add your own faults and remedies) Poor earth connections - this one is responsible for most of the performance and electrical faults that crop up. Easily overlooked, the earth leads running from the chassis (N/S/F) inner wing area and distribute to the engine and battery negative, tend to break at the connection and leave just one or two leads to do all the work. Easily replaced and cheap replacement leads can be found in Halfords for around £10 for three complete with connectors.

Seem to recall replacing an arm on a K1 in the past and there was nothing untoward with the procedure. Let us know how it goes when you get underway Cheers, Trevor

Hope you also had a great Crimbo and plenty of tuning parts pressies?

It's okay if nothing goes wrong but by the time the vehicle warns you, it's probably too late anyway